Which Diamond Shapes for Engagement Ring?
To choose an engagement ring or a solitaire diamond, it is important to choose the shape of the diamond first then to determine the shape of the ring. Today ten diamond shapes exist that are all relatively recent, as they only date back to the beginning of the 20th century. The diamond cut and shape bring out the brilliance that will give your diamond engagement ring all its luster.
Main diamond shapes.
A cut diamond consists of 4 main parts:
The facets are the flat parts and their shape depends on the type of cut.
The diamond cutter performs 5 specific tasks to obtain a cut diamond :
- Cleaving: the rough stone is split in two in order to eliminate inclusions
- Sawing: the stone is then sawed into pieces,
- Bruting: rounding the girdle,
- Cross cutting: the facets are formed
- Polishing: the diamond will be polished to give it luster
One specific characteristic of a diamond is that it is a prism and light is refracted by the upper part of the diamond. Diamonds that are not well cut lose light from the side or from the stone’s pavillion. It will have less brillance and fire, and thus less value.
The three criteria that determine the quality of a diamond are: Cut, Grade, Symmetry and Polish.
Each criterion is marked:
- Very Good,
- Fair .
Diamond Shapes for an Engagement Ring:
A « round » diamond also called a « round brilliant » and is the most common shape (75% of the diamonds sold in the world) but is also the most complex from a technical point of view. The upper part consists of a table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets and 16 upper girdle facets making a total of 57 facets. This shape was invented by Marcel Tolkozsky in 1919 and is considered the basis of modern diamond cuts.
Princess or Princessa diamond
This is the second most popular diamond shape after a brilliant for engagement rings. It is generally in a square shape but it can sometimes be rectangular when its ratio is over 1 (dividing the length by the width). Unlike a round diamond, the princess cut does not have a standard grading scale and therefore the « cut grade » is not indicated on the certificate. A perfect diamond must be square with 90 degree angles, 57 to 70 facets and a 10% to 15% crown height.
An emerald cut is a rectangular or square shape with bevelled angles and 24 facets cut in steps. This cut resembles a natural diamond the most. An emerald diamond is less brillant than a round or princess cut diamond. Due to its wide table, the inclusions and colors are more visible and ,as a result, it is preferable to select a quality rating of « Excellent » or « Very Good ».
An Asscher diamond is very similar to an emerald cut diamond. The only difference is htat it is square with cut corners Thanks to its shape, it reflects light better and has more fire than its emerald cousin. This shape is considered a vintage shape and is rarely used today.
An oval cut diamond is a round brillant that has been altered. It has 33 facets on the upper part and 22 facets on the lower part for a total of 55 facets. If it is well cut, its brillance is equal to a round diamond’s. On the other hand, if it is not well cut, a dark band in the shape of a bow can appear in the center of the diamond. It is a popular shape today because of its imposing size and brillance.
According to legend, this shape is thought to be inspired by the Marquise de Pompadour’s mouth. Cette forme est appelée également Navette ou Marquée. It is like the oval shaped diamond in that is is altered from a round diamond and has the same brillance. Its elongated shape lends it self to a pave. Not too long and not to wide is the best proportion.l .
Retangular in shape, the radiant-shaped diamond was born aournd 20 years ago. It is cut in such a way with its 70 facets, it uses the facets from the crown and from the pavillion. The result is a diamond that if far more brillant than an emerald-shaped diamond. This shape is ideal for fancy diamonds because it intensifies the color refraction.
A heart diamond is an altered round diamond. It is well suited to solitaire diamonds or for a wedding anniversary ring. In choosing the best gemstone, ensure that the lobes are well proportioned and the fissure must be well-defined.
A pear-shaped diamond is also called a drop or tear shaped diamond because of its shape and is a variant of a round-shaped diamond. It brings together both the round and marquise shapes. The most expensive diamonds in the world were cut in a pear shape because it gives the ring an elegant shape and slenderizes the hand. It consists of 57 facets.
The name of this shape comes from the shape of a cushion. It is also called Mazarine to render homage to Cardinal de Mazarin The shape is derived from the brillant shape with cut corners and big facets that accentuate the brillance but also makes the inclusions more visible. It has 57 facets like a round-shaped diamond but it is thicker and heavier. This shape is frequently used in fancy colorr diamonds.